Read My Writing

Essays and criticism from the coalface of restaurant culture – with an insider’s eye and a taste for food history

Writing on restaurant culture – from the inside and through the quirky lens of our food inheritance

Greggs New Chicken Sausage Roll Says A Lot About Modern Britain

It reveals what our high streets are losing

The Independent

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Confessions Of A Failed Restaurateur

The Government sealed my fate

UnHerd

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Bovril’s Infallible Power

As a cultural asset, it really does keep Britain going

The Spectator

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Bovril’s Infallible Power

As a cultural asset, it really does keep Britain going

The Spectator

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Noma Scandal Punctures Myth Of The Enlightened Restaurant

On co-founder René Redzepi

UnHerd

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Noma Scandal Punctures Myth Of The Enlightened Restaurant

On co-founder René Redzepi

UnHerd

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Len Deighton Taught British Bachelors To Cook

The late novelist's culinary competence

The Spectator

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Len Deighton Taught British Bachelors To Cook

The late novelist's culinary competence

The Spectator

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Tip Off: Here’s How To Fix Infuriating Service Charges

Restaurants are finding ways around laws

City A.M.

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Tip Off: Here’s How To Fix Infuriating Service Charges

Restaurants are finding ways around laws

City A.M.

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Britain Is Dining Out On Delusions

We need to start facing some hard economic truths

The Critic

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Britain Is Dining Out On Delusions

We need to start facing some hard economic truths

The Critic

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Some Of The Worst Food I Have Ever Eaten

A visit to an depressing influencer market

Substack

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Some Of The Worst Food I Have Ever Eaten

A visit to a depressing influencer market in Central London

Substack

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£58.50 “Fish and Chips” – A Review

This new Chelsea brasserie takes liberties with traditional food

Substack

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£58.50 “Fish and Chips” – An In-Depth Review

This new Chelsea brasserie takes liberties with traditional food

Substack

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London is Losing a Cult Restaurant – Why Am I Not Sad to See it Go?

A cult restaurant that delivered on flavour

Substack

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London Is Losing A Cult Restaurant – Why Am I Not Sad?

A cult restaurant that delivered on flavour, and nothing else

Substack

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